Pure Sailing Bliss in the French Pacific

With a touch of French sophistication, gin-clear waters and an azure lagoon, Nouméa lures the holiday-maker and serious sailor alike, writes HELEN HAYES.

NOUMÉA’S HIGHLIGHTS

Nouméa sits on the eastern side of the island Grande Terre, which means big land in French, and is the first port of call whether you fly or sail. With its perfect blend of indigenous Kanak and French sophistication, there is much to love – a melange of boutiques, shops (South Pacific Pearls are great value here), restaurants and attractions.

First-time visitors on a tight schedule will find the two-hour tour on the Tchou Tchou train a good introduction to the Paris of the south. A knowledgeable guide fills passengers in on sites including picturesque

Anse Vata beach and Baie de Citron beaches; the Michel Corbasson Zoological and Forest Park; the Place des Cocotiers and the excellent Tjibaou Cultural Centre, which is well worth going back to; and the Ouen Toro (the southern hill), with its two Australian cannons and great views over the jewel in the crown of the island – the lagoon.

The biggest in the world at 24,000 square kilometres, the lagoon is spectacular. Created by the massive coral reef that circles the island nation, it is second in size only to our very own Great Barrier Reef, was World

Heritage listed in 2008, and is home to more than 34 marine reserves. Needless to say, the snorkelling, the blindingly white sand beaches and verdant vegetation just adds to the experience. Briar Jensen, an experienced yachtie from Sydney, says, “Cruising inside the world’s

biggest lagoon with the world’s second largest barrier reef makes thrilling sailing, though it pays to go with someone who knows the waterways.

“Within easy reach of Nouméa are mountainous islands, rocky islets and coral cays surrounded by inviting turquoise waters, so it’s easy to island-hop.

“As a major nesting site for marine turtles, you can expect to see enormous specimens swimming by, and with nearly 2,000 species of fish, it’s a fantastic location for snorkelling and diving.”

One gem that you cannot miss is Amédée Island, a tiny coral atoll located around 24 kilometres south of Nouméa. Amédée is home to France’s first metal lighthouse, one of the tallest in the world at 56 metres. If you have the energy, climb to the top for magnificent views.

Aleney de Winter, who has cruised in New Caledonia twice, says, “Amédée is the perfect place to drop anchor and snorkel alongside dozens of graceful green sea turtles or a friendly dugong. You can even see the native sea snakes (tricot rayés), slithering in and out of the water.’

Deb Howie, who learned French in New Caledonia and has done several yacht charters there through Dream Yacht Charters, also rates Amédée as well as some smaller islets such as Mato Island.

“It is surrounded by spectacular coral reefs where you snorkel among some of the most beautiful coral gardens I’ve ever seen. The colours are vibrant, the coral walls are deep, and it’s isolated so only a handful of boats anchor at any time. On land you can climb Mato to look down and watch reef sharks feed at low tide.

“Kouare Island is another fabulous getaway spot, and it’s far enough away from the day trippers to have the island to yourself. Good protection in the right winds makes it a comfortable mooring, perfect for that end of day wine and antipasto after swimming with the fish.”

Deb continues, “I love catching the water taxi to Île aux Canards off Anse Vata and drift snorkelling in the gentle gin-clear waters before having lunch in the local restaurant.

“Îlot Maître is a short 15-minute sail from Nouméa and has a wide selection of overnight moorings where you can tender over to the bar and take in the magnificent sunset with a cocktail.”

Bruce and Lyn Savage also rate Maître.

“It’s a kite surfer’s mecca with perfect trade winds every afternoon and a beautiful huge lagoon. The lee side is a tranquil paradise while the wind howls on the windward side. It’s also a marine reserve on the windward side of the island. The lagoon is teaming with turtles that are so relaxed you can swim alongside them!”

While the aquatic delights of Nouméa steal centre stage, the interior has plenty going for it too. There is a 1,600-metre high mountain range cutting a swathe down its centre, which must be why Captain James Cook named the country after Scotland when he sailed through in 1768 or thereabouts. There is adventure aplenty to be had here, from hiking, surfing up around Bourail, and biking to horse riding. Horses are everywhere, with one horse for every 20 locals. Gayle Dickson, a regular to these shores, recommends riding with Haras de Tontouta, just north of the international airport. “It is a superb ride through the hills, crossing streams-the horses were even swimming at one stage!”

Bruce and Lyn also love the southern part of Grand Terre. “The waterfalls at Prony Bay on the southernmost tip of the main island are beautiful. You can follow the river, rock hopping, to get to the cascades and spend the day. It is a rare treat for yachties to swim in fresh water.”

A GOURMAND’S DREAM

The variety of food in New Caledonia is a godsend for visitors, with abundant fresh seafood and a plethora of French delights. Yachties needing to provision for a charter or the return leg back to Australia will have no problem stocking up. There are several fantastic supermarkets, and bakeries where you can get delicious baguettes.

Deb Howie swears by Géant Hypermarché, and can often be found in the fromage (cheese) section. “There are cheeses I’ve never heard of, and some can only be sourced at certain times. Specialties can include varieties from the cattle that are herded to mountaintops during spring to graze, creating a special milk for this cheese. Afterwards, stock up on wine at French Cellars.”

As for dining, Deb recommends Rimba Juice Cafe at Anse Vata, Le Miretti Gascon, La Marmite et Tire Bouchon and La Creperie Bretonne. “It has pages of savoury and sweet crepes, all made fresh with tasty fillings.”

Kiwi cruiser Mark Rose loves Restaurant Manuia on the Promenade Roger Laroque in Nouméa, with its fresh seafood and grand cru wines winning him over. And Bruce and Lyn Savage, who are practically locals over there now, highly recommend La Fiesta on the Baie de Citron.

One of the traditional dishes is bourgna, a mix of chicken and fish wrapped in banana leaves along with sweet potatoes, bananas and coconut milk, which is cooked in an earth oven heated by hot stones.

Aleney de Winter salivates over the Isle of Pines, especially when there is a cruise ship nearby. “The shore line of Kuto and Kanumera Bays are lined with pop-up food stalls serving delicious whole fresh fish, lobsters and the most incredible giant forest snails, all barbecued with buttery garlic.”

Deb Howie also likes the fare at Kanumera Bay, recommending the native escargot at Oure Terra.

INTO THE BLUE ON THE ISLE OF PINES

This idyllic island is a short sail from the southern tip of Grand Terre, but packs a real punch in terms of things to see and do.

While Kanumera Bay with its sacred rock and neighbouring Kuto Bay are undeniably beautiful, one of the most magical locations is Oro Bay and its piscine naturelle (natural swimming pool).

It is something the imagineers at Disneyland would be proud of. This pool, located off the vast and magnificent Upi Bay, has been naturally carved out of the coral and is a living aquarium packed with fish that are all the colours of the rainbow, and then some. Snorkel to your heart’s content, being very careful not to step on the coral, and maybe snap a selfie by a giant clam in the crystal clear water.

Another place of interest is Queen Hortense’s Cave in the north of the small island. The track to the cave is lined with ferns and other lush greenery and then into a series of caves. Legend has it that the fair Queen once hid herself in the caves for six months back in the 188os to keep herself safe from warring tribes.

Another place to seek out is Bruce and Lyn Savage’s favourite – Gadgi on the northern tip of the island. “It is pretty much boatonly access, and the anchorage is protected 360 degrees. It is pure paradise. I think the very first Survivor series was filmed there, and it has superb diving and snorkelling. It really is pure bliss.”

Featured image –  Bryan Gauvan pic.